|
|
Our February newsletter brings you an interesting feature article on the panorama of Indian shawls. Besides there are all the other regular features including places to go to, discovering some interesting facts, and a plant profile.
|
In India, the places which get a taste of a really harsh winter are the towns and villages located in the Himalayan belt from the north (mainly J&K and Himachal Pradesh, and Uttaranchal) to the east (encompassing Sikkim and northern territories of West Bengal). For the rest of the subcontinent the seasons are not so well demarcated; the
spring season is rather short-lived and quickly succeeded by summer. Spring is ushered in, so to say, with Basant Panchami (late January or early February), on which day the Hindus worship Saraswati, (the goddess of learning, music and the arts) and ends with Holi (festival of colours) which makes an appearance by mid-March. Therefore one can
conveniently consider the month of February to be synonymous with the fragrant spring, when the tender buds begin to make their appearance on the trees, pretty flowers spring up almost everywhere in fields, meadows, besides tiny pools, and even on rocks! The soft, gentle breeze that blows and the occasional singing of the cuckoo bird, (which mercifully can still be heard, though the greenery is fast disappearing) completes the pretty picture. The full-orbed moon that bathes the surrounding in shimmering silvery light, creates a romantic atmosphere, often inspiring the young and fanciful young one to break into songs or try their hand at writing poetry.
The much publicised and highly popular festival, Valentine’s Day which falls on14th February has caught on in India too and is eagerly awaited by the young and the young at heart. It is at once a spring festival and celebration of love (A western counterpart of Holi to be precise). In addition, the Indian Hindus will celebrate Maha Shivaratri, when Lord Shiva is to have wedded his beloved Parvati. As usual the Christian community will observe Candlemas (infant Jesus’ first visit to the synagogue) and Ash Wednesday which marks the beginning of the austere period of Lent.
|
The Spring Season |
If you want to know more about these festivals, please log onto:
http://www.indiaheritage.org/newlet/feb06.htm
|
| Must
be there
|
Well there are quite a few things happening in February! It just needs some time and the will, to go to any of these places.
|
During the Desert Festival (31st ─ 2nd February) at Jaisalmer in Rajasthan, the rich and flamboyant Rajasthani folk culture is presented to the rest of the world. Rajasthani men and women dressed in their colourful traditional attire, dance and sing rousing, often soulful ballads revolving around the themes of valour, romance and tragedy from a bygone era. Traditional (instrumental) musicians bring forth masterpieces to regale the audience. Jaislamer is served by an airport 3km west of the city. A train journey from Delhi to Jaisalmer takes 16 hours 45 minutes, with a stopover in Jodhpur. Alternatively you could reach Jodhpur either by air or train and undertake a 10-hour drive to Jaisalmer.
|
Desert Festival |
|
Suraj Kund Crafts Mela |
The Suraj Kund Crafts Mela (1st ─ 15th February) in Haryana, could prove to be an exciting outing as well as a shopping spree rolled into one. Spread over a large area, in the vicinity of Delhi, the fair creates an authentic rural ambience that appeals to both foreign and domestic tourists. This annual event has on display some of the finest specimens of handlooms, objets d’art and handicraft traditions of our country. Suraj Kund is less than an hour’s drive away from South Delhi.
|
The Khajuraho Festival of Dances (25th Feb ─ 3rd March), in Madhya Pradesh features renowned classical dancers of our country, who perform against the spectacular backdrop of the floodlit temples every year. This seven-day extravaganza proves to be an experience of a lifetime for the dance lovers and connoisseurs of dance from all over the country and even abroad. Daily flights connect Delhi to Khajuraho.The nearest railheads are Mahoba, Tarpaper, Jhansi and Satna for people coming to Khajuraho from various parts of the country. Khajuraho is connected by regular and direct bus services with Chhatarpur, Mahoba, Harpalpur, Satna, Panna, Jhansi, Gwalior, Agra, Sagar, Jabalpur, Indore, Bhopal, Varanasi and Allahabad |

Khajuraho Festival of Dances |
|
Allauddin Khan Samaroh |
Lastly, if you are a music lover, try to make it to the annual Allauddin Khan Samaroh (16th ─ 17th February) at Maihar in Madhya Pradesh, where celebrated vocal and instrumental musicians from all over the country perform, by way of paying tribute the legendary maestro Baba Alauddin Khan Sahib (1862–1972), a Bengali Indian classical sarod player, multi-instrumentalist, founder of the Maihar gharana (school) of music, and one of the greatest Indian music teachers of the 20th century, whose illustrious disciples include eminent Sarod player Ali Akbar Khan, Sitarist Pt. Ravi Shankar and flautist Pannalal Ghosh, to name a few. Maihar is located in Satna district of the state, close to Satna town, the district headquarter.The town is approachable by rail as well as road route through Mumbai-Howrah train route and National Highway No.7. The nearest Airport is at Khajuraho (130 kms). |
Textiles Special
| Swathing You In Comfort And Warmth |
A shawl (derived from Persian Shāl) is an extremely simple item of clothing; a square or oblong piece of cloth worn loosely over the shoulders, upper body and arms and sometimes also draped over the head. For centuries, people have been using shawls in order to keep themselves warm, as an accessory, as well as for symbolic and religious purposes. A classic example is the Tallit, worn by Jewish men during prayers and ceremonies, even today.
Since ancient times, the shawl has existed in India in myriad forms, worn by both men and women. Many references to shawls are to be found in the Ramayana, the Mahabharata and the earlier Atharvaveda. In ancient Buddhist literature, the shawl is also mentioned among the woollen garments prevalent in those times. |
A Tallit Shawl |
According to India’s cultural traditions, a shawl is not merely an item of clothing; it is also a symbol of honour. It is customary to welcome scholars and important dignitaries by draping a shawl over their shoulders. India’s highest civilian and cultural awards include besides cash, a plaque and a citation, a resplendent shawl. The Gurdwara (alternatively gurudwara, holy shrines of the Sikh community) bestows honour on any distinguished individual by presenting him/her with a Saropa (A gift of honour. Usually a length of cloth for tying a turban or a scarf worn over the shoulders).
The Hindu counter part of the Jewish prayer shawl is the Namavali (literally: rows of names). This fairly large scarf (made of cotton, jute or even silk), is saffron or ochre in colour, with either “Hare Krishna” (the sacred name of the Lord) or “Aum” (the most sacred symbol in Hinduism. It represents the sound of the universe and the three deities comprising the Hindu trinity ─ Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesh or Shiva. The vibration of the three aspects of A-U-M represent the fullness of creation), printed in red in Devanagari or the Bengali script.
India being a tropical country, most parts of the land experience warm to mild weather throughout the year, which almost eliminates the necessity of shawls. However, the northern belt of the country experiences a severe, harsh winter, which is why the shawl is a major item of everyday as well as occasional wear, for at least a quarter of a year, in these parts.
In the southern states, which experiences no winter, the men’s apparel includes the traditional dhoti and shirt and the counterpart of a shawl, the Angavastram ─ a plain piece of fabric generally white or off-white in colour, its two ends adorned with shiny colourful stripes. The hill tribes living in the south do have their own version of the shawl, to keep away the slight nip in the air. In the northern states, the men folk have a penchant for draping themselves in large-sized blanket-like shawls, known as Lohi. They come in shades of grey and other dark colours. |
The first shawls, woven in India were possibly a part of traditional male attire in Kashmir. They were extremely fine in texture, done in a single, uniform colour, with ornate designs; some were woven in a harmonious combination of colours too. During the Mughal era, Kashmir was already a flourishing centre of shawl-making. Emperor Akbar was so greatly enchanted by the Kashmiri shawl that he would often experiment with various ways of wearing it. Akbar encouraged the weavers to try new motifs, and also started the fashion of the twin shawl, where two identical shawls were sewn back to back, hiding the rough edges of tapestry weave, and giving the impression of a single, reversible shawl. In those days, the shawls meant for royalty and the nobility were embroidered with pure gold and silver threads, and embellished with precious stones. |
Kashmiri shawls |
|
A Pashmina shawl |
The shawls made in Kashmir occupy a pride of place in ladies’ wardrobes, the world over. The “Kashmir shawl” includes several interesting and priceless varieties such as the Pashmina, made with pashm (soft, short, flossy under-wool) obtained from the Capra Hircus goat (a.k.a Cashmere) which inhabits the higher reaches of Tibet. These shawls are very fine in texture, lightweight and extremely warm. The varied designs on these shawls ─ ranging from large prominent paisleys in the four corners, to crisscross trellis (jaali) work all over ─ are breathtakingly beautiful. The designs on Pashmina shawls are executed with such masterly strokes of artistic craft, that one cannot easily tell the right side from the wrong!.
It would be interesting to note that it is solely on Pashmina shawls, that the traditional exquisite embroidery of Kashmir is executed; (sometimes the entire surface of the fabric is covered) thereby transforming it into a Jamawar. Also, the value of a shawl increases manifold, by virtue of these designs. |
The Shahtoosh (literally: the king of wools) shawls made from wool obtained by killing several Tibetan antelopes (a.k.a Chiru), thereby rendering them a highly endangered species. These shawls are fabled to be so fine that they can easily pass through a ring. At present, the production as well as sale of the Shahtoosh has been banned by the Indian government and owners of old and previously acquired
Shahtoosh shawls are required to register their precious possession. |
Another type is the Kani shawl whose production involves numerous Kanis or little wooden sticks wrapped in coloured threads, which are moved through the entire length of the loom to produce floral motifs using elegant colour schemes. The 19th century witnessed changes in the weaving of the traditional Kani shawls. Instead of being woven as one piece, they now began to be woven in long strips on small looms. The areas of design being large, the pattern was broken down into fragmented parts, each woven separately (often on separate looms); finally all the pieces were put together, and stitched by artisans who were efficient in needlework. These stitches were almost invisible, so that the final product looked like one complete unit. |
A Kani shawl |

A Kashmiri Paisley Design |
The period also saw the advent of the Amli or embroidered shawl which involves enhancing the beauty of a plain piece of woollen fabric by means of parallel darning stitches.
Totally enamoured by Kashmiri shawls, the British colonials took numerous pieces back home, where they found a ready market. Their fame spread to neighbouring France too; several portraits pertaining to that period depict high society ladies wearing these colourful shawls with beautiful motifs. Thus the colonial powers may well be credited with introducing and gradually familiarising Kashmiri shawls in Europe.
However, the most outstanding feature of the Kashmir shawl is the universally acclaimed “paisley” pattern. This lacy teardrop pattern had its origin in ancient Persia (modern-day Iran). The paisley was adapted in India and eventually spread to Scotland when soldiers returning from the colonies took home cashmere wool shawls. During the 19th century, weavers in the town of Paisley, in Renfrewshire, Scotland, adapted the design to weave woollen shawls, and hence the name. A floral motif called Buta, which owes its origin to the Safavid dynasty of Persia happens to be a popular feature on Kashmiri shawls till date. |
Fortunately, there is also an entire range of low-priced, affordable Kashmiri shawls, commonly available in the shops and with the ubiquitous Kashmiri shawl wallahs (hawkers) who descend on the Indian cities and towns with the onset of winter. The fabrics used are of slightly inferior quality though durable and capable of providing sufficient warmth. They too are cleverly etched with the traditional characteristic patterns, and sometimes only a very trained and discerning eye can tell them apart.
(To be concluded in the March 2007 issue) |
|
| Why
not learn about ?
|
The origin of the ambulance |
“Necessity is the mother of invention” goes the adage. Likewise, the origin of the ambulance may be traced back to the exigencies of war. In medieval Europe, battlefields were often miles away from medical tents. Injured soldiers often died before receiving treatment since they had to be carried by men on foot. Though unrelated to the modern four-wheeled automated version, the earliest forms of ambulances were used as long ago as the middle ages, when men wounded in battle during the Crusades (a series of eight extended battles fought by European noblemen between1095─1291 to protect the Christian Byzantine empire from Muslim Turks) were transported by horse-drawn wagons to centralized treatment centres. Did you know that the horse-driven version of the modern ambulance (complete with equipment and accessories) was created in 1792 by Napoleon's private surgeon, a Frenchman by the name of Dominique-Jean Larrey (1766 ─ 1842). |
A Horse Drawn Ambulance
|
Larrey was imbued with the idea of improving the treatment available to wounded soldiers in the battlefield. He designed a horse-drawn "flying ambulance" to carry surgeons and medical supplies right onto the battlefield during Napoleon’s Rhine campaign of 1792. For the Italian campaign, two years later, Larrey used light ambulance carriages with stretchers to bring the wounded. In 1799 during the campaign in Egypt, Larrey used local camels to draw ambulances. Thereafter, with fellow surgeon Pierre Percy (1754─1825), Larrey formed a battalion of ambulance soldiers, including stretcher-bearers and surgeons. Larrey's ambulances and the speedy medical attention they brought helped to boost the morale of Napoleon's troops. The Larrey "flying ambulance" remained in use till the motorized ambulances made their appearance in the early 20th century. These motorized vehicles were manufactured by Panhard-Evassor, a company based in France. Ambulance services within metropolises was pioneered in1869 by Bellevue Hospital located in New York City. |
|
Plant
focus
|
While tinting your hair, or painting the palms of your hands or your feet, do you ever wonder as to where this wonderful, almost magical a substance, comes from? Well, what you are using is basically a powder obtained by crushing the leaves of the Henna plant.
According to historical evidence, Henna was a familiar commodity, used as hair dye in India around 400AD and also in contemporary Rome. Much earlier, it was listed in the medical texts of the Ebers Papyrus (1600 BC Egypt) and by Ibn Qayyim al-Jawziyya (1400 AD Syria and Egypt) as a medicinal herb.
In the Bible Henna is referred to as Camphire. In India, Pakistan and Bangladesh, it is familiarly called Mehndi (a.k.a Mehendi/Mehandi). In the Arabic-speaking zone comprising North Africa and the Middle East, the Arabic name Henna is used. Interestingly, in Tamil speaking regions (including Tamil Nadu, Singapore, Malaysia, and Srilanka) it is called as 'Marudhaani'. |
A Henna Decorated Hand
|
Henna (Lawsonia inermis, syn. L. alba) is a fowering plant, that belongs to the Lythraceae. It is native to tropical and subtropical regions of Africa, southern Asia and northern Australasia. It is actually a shrub growing upto 6 m in height. The leaves are in opposite decussate (To cross or become crossed so as to form an X intersect) pairs, oval, 2–4 cm long and 1.5–3 cm broad. The flowers are fragrant, each flower 5 mm indiameter, with four white petals. The fruit is a dry capsule 6–8 mm in diameter, containing numerous seeds which are 1–2.5 mm in size.
The Henna plant thrives well in the tropical Savannah and tropical arid zones, in latitudes between 15° and 25° north and south, from Africa to the western Pacific rim. The plant produces highest dye content in temperatures between 35°C and 45°C. It cannot survive in places where the minimum temperatures are below 11°C.
The plant possesses a red-orange dye molecule, lawsone, which has an affinity for bonding with protein, and therefore has been extensively used to dye skin, hair, fingernails, leather, silk and wool. Henna is commercially cultivated in Western India, Pakistan, Iran, Yemen, Morocco and Sudan.
Though Henna has been used for body art and hair dye right from the Bronze Age, only lately has Henna has come into prominence as a powerful item for body art, owing to improvements in cultivation and processing as well greater interaction with people from raditional Henna-using regions. Apart from its colouring properties, Henna is a very good natural conditioner and helps to strengthen the human hair. Its anti-fungal properties help to control dandruff. Using Henna also makes the hair tangle free and easily manageable Henna is used as a preservative for leather and cloth. Did you know that in Morocco, wool, drumheads and other leather goods are dyed and ornamented with henna? Henna possesses properties to repel insects, pests and mildew.
|
From one wise
human to another:
|
"If we had no winter, the spring would not be so pleasant: if we did not sometimes taste of adversity, prosperity would not be so welcome." |
| |
- Ann Bradstreet,American poet (1612 - 1672) |
Aum
Shanti! Shanti! Shanti!
To subscribe, complete the form below: |
|
|
|
|
|
|